WATCH OF THE DAY
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As it continues to develop its in-house manufacturing capabilities, Glashutte-based Tutima this year debuted a flyback chronograph caliber that echoes its own rich history as a maker of aviation watches. The Tutima Tempostopp, which many marked (somewhat unexpectedly) as a favorite among the many debut in-house chronographs seen at Baselworld 2017, is a gold-cased watch that offers a vintage flavor from the front and back and also becomes Tutima’s fourth manufacture caliber since it unveiled the Hommage minute repeater in 2011.
The Tempostopp is housed in the same 43mm rose gold case that marks Tutima’s three-hand and a dual time Patria watches, both made with in-house manual-wind calibers. The watch’s Caliber T659 is a manual-wind movement that recalls the Glashütte UROFA Calibre 59 from the 1940s developed for the Tutima Fliegerchronograph, which Tutima calls the first German flyback chronograph.
The flyback function (known by its German name “Tempostopp” when it first debuted in the 1940s) means the chronograph’s elapsed-seconds hand can be started, stopped, and returned to zero with only one push of a button. This lets the user measure immediately successive intervals and makes many repetitive commands unnecessary.
The new chronograph’s dial layout nicely balanced, classically finished and helpfully spaced. But for us, it’s that back that is most impressive. Tutima has made the caseback view quite appealing with gold-plated bridges and mainplate and finely wrought decoration. All this is enhanced with contrasting brushed steel chronograph bridges and levers.
The Tutima Tempstopp is made as a limited edition of ninety pieces, each priced at
Specifications: Tutima Tempostopp
Movement: Mechanical hand-wound movement, Calibre T659, with free-sprung Breguet hairspring and 65-hours of power reserve.
Case: 43mm rose gold with sapphires crystals front and back
Functions: Hour and minute; small second; chronograph with additive stopping, flyback function, jumping counter for up to 30 elapsed-minutes
Special features: Chronograph with column-wheel; cocks and main-plates matte and gold plated; hand-engraved balance-cock; cocks for wheels and balance are decorated with a finely striped pattern and polished bevels; surfaces of steel parts have a finely striped pattern polished on tin to a high gloss; springs for switching lever and seconds rocker are polished on tin; all setting and positioning pins are polished
Strap: Alligator leather, pin buckle in 18-karat rose gold
Limited to 90 pieces
*Design: 8 (out of 10)
The vintage dial is nicely balanced. While not truly vintage, the clear caseback is nonetheless convincing given the steel/gilded movement.
Tutima had to re-engineer an old design.
Rich dial, perfectly polished hands and nice attention to all movement polish and beveling.
More classic than boldly visible for the cockpit.
Only 90 pieces will be made.
High initial pricing of $29,500 will be moderated by the watch’s rarity.
iW rating: 47 out of 60